Fermentation, flavor, and the future of food: Making sustainability delicious

At Yondu Culinary Studio in Lower Manhattan, chef Jaume Biarnés demonstrates how to create deep, savory flavors from a handful of vegetables.

He believes that the centuries-old Korean fermentation technique is one answer to one of the most pressing questions of our time: how to feed a growing global population without exhausting the planet.

“Korea has the highest consumption of vegetables in the world, and that’s because they use fermentation to make vegetables taste delicious,” he said. “If we want people to eat more vegetables and eat more sustainably, it has to be done in a fun way.”

Go green without going broke

For Mr Biarnés, who once worked at the legendary El Bulli restaurant in Spain – voted the world’s best restaurant five times – sustainability is not a trend but a fundamental part of being a chef and running a kitchen.

In an industry where costs are high and margins are tight, any “green” initiative must make economic sense. “Sustainability is being able to secure resources for the future so you can continue operating,” explains Mr Biarnés. “At the restaurant level, this means economic sustainability. At the global level, as a species, it means the same thing.”

However, he emphasized that restaurants that weren’t built with sustainability in mind can do so if they take it one step at a time.

Controlling food waste, he said, is embedded in good kitchen management. A tougher challenge lies in sourcing local produce: busy chefs often don’t have time to search for regional suppliers, and dominant food distribution networks don’t prioritize location proximity.

“That’s what we have to fix so that chefs can access local products more easily and at more competitive prices.”

Policy also has a role. He was referring to Europe, where many single-use items are banned or restricted, in contrast to the United States, where disposable plates and cups are still common. “Policymakers must help businesses to move away from single-use materials,” he underlined.

The modern relevance of ancient techniques

At Yondu Culinary Studio, where Mr. Biarnés is Director, the focus is on Korean vegetable fermentation – a practice that predates refrigeration but remains highly relevant in the era of climate-conscious cooking.

“Fermentation is a traditional technique for preserving products,” he explained. “Pickles, sauerkraut, cheese, beer…we ferment all over the world. It’s been used as a method of preserving food as well as a flavor building technique.”

By extending shelf life, fermentation reduces waste. By enhancing taste, this makes plant-based diets more appealing, a double benefit in a world where switching to vegetables is one of the most effective dietary changes one can make for the planet.

Love and share

A native of Catalonia who is now championing Korean culinary traditions in New York, Mr. Biarnés embodies the cross-cultural flows that define contemporary gastronomy.

“We live in a time when ideas develop very quickly, sometimes faster than materials,” he said. “You will most likely see the recipe on TikTok or Instagram before you can actually find the ingredients.”

“The kitchen and the table are a way to understand each other,” he says. “There is no better way to convey your own culture and love of your country than to share your cooking, your ingredients with others.”

For those looking to apply these principles in their own kitchens, Mr Biarnés offers straightforward guidance, which echoes US-based author Michael Pollan: “Eat, not too much, and mostly vegetables.”

Practical tips for your kitchen:

• Buy ingredients, not processed foods. Fresh ingredients tend to be more local, more flavorful and have a lower carbon footprint.
• Check its origins. If a product comes from another part of the world, it may not be sustainable or taste the best.
• Embrace the season. “Who wants to eat peaches in the winter? They’re bland,” he said. Visiting a local farmers market will reveal what is ripe and ready.
• Plan to avoid waste. Know what you’re going to cook before you shop, buy only what you’ll need for the next few days, and use your freezer to prepare meals.

Most importantly, Mr. Biarnés urges, enjoy the process. “The most important thing is the fun factor,” he said. “Vegetables are good for you because they give you pleasure. Vitamins and fiber come later.”

Sustainable Gastronomy Day is celebrated on June 18 every year to recognize gastronomy as a cultural expression related to the world’s natural and cultural diversity.